While planning a trip to Hampi (ruins of a glorius medieval kingdom) a couple of years ago , I was brushing up on history not to miss even an iota of what the place had to offer. It turned out to be a weekend packed with history, culture and coracle rides. History and culture apart, the Coracle Ride across the river Tungabhadra in Hampi is something I often reminiscence about.
Coracle is a saucer or bowl shaped primitive country boat which is generally rowed with one paddle. It is made with thin strips of bamboo which is interwoven in a lattice framework to build the base and then the same pattern is followed to raise the sides. The bottom is further strengthened with layers of hide, plastic and sometimes tar to ensure it is sturdy (heavier than the sides) and waterproof.
I stood beside the river side oscillating between fear and desire whether to take a coracle ride across the river or simply travel in one of those small and noisy motor boats.
Meanwhile, the coracles were engaged in brisk business, ferrying men and their motor bikes and sometimes multiple pieces of luggage. The men on the bikes appeared to be straight out of a regional pot boiler absolutely at ease on the coracle.
If that small thing could sustain the weight of 3 motor bikes, surely, I would be safe, I reasoned with myself. Minutes of indecision later, I decided to take the plunge, assuring myself that there were several people around to pull me out in the event I give in to my clumsy side and fall off the coracle. The coracle rower made some passengers sit on the base and a few others on the edge to ensure that the weight was somewhat evenly balanced.
As we moved, I got comfortable watching other Coracle’s float by, racing each other to cross over in the shortest time. The next 20 minutes was bliss, so much so that it left me wanting for a longer ride. As I got off for a promising sightseeing journey of medieval history, I did not mind being wet at the wrong place from the occasional water seepage in the coracle.
Coracle’s are popular in the southern part of the country, specially in the areas along the river Tungabhadra and Cauvery. Hampi is about 350 kms from Bangalore and is accessible by road and rail. It is a great 3 day trip from Bangalore.
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For me that was nostalgic. I spent a few summers there at my grandfather’s place on the island. They used to supply milk to all the coffee shops on the main street in Hampi. As a kid in the 60s, I used to cross Tungabhara at least 4 times on the coracle (arugolu in Telugu) to supply milk. The island used to be a jungle in the 1950s, with an ashram and a guru. My grandfather and his associate bought the island from the guru before he passed away, and transformed it into an agricultural land and cultivated it in those days.
Thank You for this lovely comment and giving insight about life gone by. You are witness to the change over the years.
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i love coracle boats …shivanasamudra and hoggenkkal waterfall are best places to enjoy them….nice post 🙂
I am yet to take a ride in Hogenakkal.
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Hampi !! never heard about this place before glad I am informed now .. the boats look great … the Coracle with one paddle 🙂
Just float on it once and you will fall in love with it…
heights , snakes , waterbody and cops … bring them closer or send me closer and I almost faint 😀 but now that you have recommended .. I will .. whenever I happen to visit Hampi may be after two pegs to feel at ease 😀
After 2 pegs …ok but fall in love with the coracle & Tungabhadra and not with the coracle rower )
😀
Nice writeup. The images brought back memories. My first experience of Coracle was in Hogenakal falls. The fellow wanted to frighten us and moved the coracle round and round like a top to the howl of my friends. It can move in shallow waters unlike a large boat.
I know. They tend to do that when people get scared 🙂 In Hampi it is a regular mode of transport and less of a joy ride.
Thank You.
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I could imagine how it would be fascinating to take a ride on a coracle.But, It’s amazing to know that a coracle even carry bikes.
Me too. My first reaction was its going to sink midway but then when they did not, I got the courage to get in.
Awesome. I want one 🙂
May you have one soon 🙂
Sangeeta , Amazing post..:) Those coracles- love them…:) Have you been to Hogenakkal Falls?:)
Thank You. I am yet to visit Hogenakkal but remember the scenes from the movie Roja…
I mentioned Hogenakkal because I saw coracles for the first and last time during hogenakkal visit. ..Amazing spot for photography and nature lovers; and not far from Blore . 🙂 You will love it.:) My another favorite place close to Bangalore was Nrityagram. 🙂 Take care:)
Actually I have not seen much around Bangalore since I was travelling back and forth from work 🙁 I will now go around the city and surrounding areas.
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