We were on our way to Patan, eager to visit the exquisite Rani ki Vav. I have seen many a monument built by a king in memory of his queen but this one where we were headed to was different, it was a testimony of a queen’s love for her beloved king. After a 2 hour drive from Ahmedabad, our car stopped next to a large garden with a vague board pointing somewhere inside for a stepwell. It was hot and sunny and the walk daunting. We wondered whether we had arrived at the right spot and all the pictures of the structure that we had seen was indeed inside that opening in the ground.
When we stood at the edge of the step well, we gasped at the beautiful structure that lay below. Stepwells (Vav) are sometimes as large as a pond built in a way such that they tapered downwards from a rectangular opening into a deeper, rounded well at the lowest level. Built in multiple levels, each level had a partial roof or a pavilion which blocked direct sun light as well as served as a resting area for travelers.
This subterranean splendid structure better known as Rani ki Vav is about 64 meters long, 20 meters wide and 27 meters deep. As we kept going down the steps, we soon found ourselves in a different world where each wall and each pillar was beautifully sculptured.
The next 1 hour was complete bliss, with the sun playing hide and seek from above the minute carvings of apsaras, the sculptures of different avatars of Vishnu and the Mother Goddess slaying demons came alive (Mahishasur Mardini).
In the light and dark of it all unfolded the love of Rani Udaymati who got this built in memory of her husband Raja Bhimdev I of the Solanki Dynasty and hence the name Rani ki Vav or Queen of Stepwells. Built sometime in 11th century AD, it was silted up over the years and rediscovered and cleared by archaeologists very recently. Wells are not always dark, deep and mysterious, in this part of the world they are exquisite monuments.
We were told that there is a passage at the lowermost level now blocked by stones and silt which was intended as an escape route to a neighbouring town in the event there was an external attack when people gathered in the stepwell to rest or for a social activity. Rani-ki-Vav (The Queen’s Stepwell) at Patan, Gujarat made it to the UNESCO World Heritage list in June 2014 after being on the tentative list for a while.
Stepwells are fmostly found in the North Western States of Rajastan and Gujarat which border the desert. Faced with water scarcity as the monsoon water disappeared into the parched Thar Desert and the inability of the ponds to hold water due to the silty soil and scorching summer heat, stepwell was a practical solution for locals and travelers. It is just an ancient version of the pit stops on the highways.
Travel Tip:
It is about 125 kms from Ahmedabad and best done as a day trip clubbed with Modhera (ancient Sun Temple) and Little Rann of Kutch Do visit the Patola Design Printing centre close to the site. It is an amazing printing style done on silk and does cost a fortune by Indian Standards.
Hi Sangeeta, A well written article indeed!!
We are planning to drive down from Ahmedabad to Rani ki Vav and Modhera. Can you please help us with the finalizing of the route and the places to see nearby or enroute. It will be a day trip only. Many thanks. Manish
Hi Manish,
If you are doing a day trip only then Little Rann of Kutch and Wild Ass Sanctuary will not be possible. Do visit the Patola Weaving place in Patan very close to Rani Ki Vav. There is not much on the way that I can think of.
Warm Regards,
Sangeeta
Thanks Sangeeta. The blog was really helpful.
Pingback: Pattadakal ~ Masterpieces of Chalukyan Architecture | Life is a Vacation
Hi Sangeeta,
I might visit Rani-ki-vav in this month or the next. Can you help me with few things here –
– Are there any tourist guides available? Can you recommend me a guide who can give an insight into its history?
– Are there any state transport buses that go to Patan? If yes, then what is the frequency?
Hi,
Sorry have been away from my blog for a while. Our driver had doubled up as the guide and we had books with us so did not look for one. As regards, buses I dont have an idea since we were on a road trip and this was one of our stops.
Is this well ever full? When is the well Empty? Do you have accessibility to reach to the bottom of the well?
I am planning to tour Gujarat in August. If you can provide this information, It would really excite my tour.
Thanks,
Vijay
Hi Vijay,
The well is not full and you cannot reach the bottom. I would highly recommend you to visit the place since the sculptures are awesome.
Warm Regards,
Sangeeta
Pingback: Incredible India: Rani Ki Vav, Gujarat | Destination Infinity
Pingback: Grandeur of the Modhera Sun Temple, Gujarat, India | Life is a Vacation
Superb photos and nice collage. I wish I could visit this site sometime, let me see.. 🙂
You must. It was awesome to say the least !!
Fantastic pictures Sangeeta. Glad to have passed by.
Thanks Vibha.
I have been longing to visit this place for long now.
You must plan to be there along with Kutch!! Its not so popular as Rajasthan but a treasure trove.
Pingback: Weekly Photo Challenge: Inside, #2: A flubbed double | Rob's Surf Report
Pingback: Weekly Photo Challenge: Inside, #1: What’s in my head? | Rob's Surf Report
Wow, fantastic Sangeeta! Looks like an amazing place!
Its amazing carvings, nearly 1000 years old and all in the open…
Pingback: Weekly Photo Challenge: Inside Sculpture | Jake Kuyser
I have seen some in Rajasthan. Engineering marvels of yesteryears!
Sometimes I wonder what we are going to leave behind that will last atleast a 100 years if not more
Thanks for explaining the stepwell. I have seen photos of some before and wondered what they were for. Lovely photos.
Thanks Terri.
That looks gorgeous! Was hoping to visit Abhaneri later this year, but we switched direction to Lucknow instead 🙁 Another time hopefully.
Thanks Madhu. The stepwell turned out to be far more bewitching than the pictures I had seen. Have been to Lucknow as a child and am looking forward to another trip to the Bhul Bhulaiya and ofcourse the food and shopping in Hazratganj. Enjoy your trip, I will live Lucknow through your photos.
Great pics and I loved the story behind it as well..
Thanks Manjulika.
This is simply inspiring and I hope to see this someday Sangeeta! Wonderful post!
Thank You. One more site added to your India trip list 🙂
Hey, I was there recently too. Its stunning 🙂
Absolutely !! I feel humbled by art
Beautiful images. How do you pronounce Vav?
Thank You. Heard it in different tones – like Va-o (where A as in Ah) or VAV
I am so desperate to get here. Thanks for the post.
🙂 Thank You
nice clicks. well presented
Thank You
Wonderful history and photos, Sangeeta. I hope the Raja was impressed.
Sadly, it was built after he passed away and the desolate queen sought refuge in supervising this construction !! History is “Hi Story” so 🙂